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The Start

 

February 18

More work on the right front door.  I installed the winding mechanism, door latch and handle.  I had to twist the door handle shaft to get the handle to line up with the chrome side trim.  The new handle from the club looks great and makes me wonder if I should replace the rest of them.

 

February 20

Worked on the rear doors installed the window channel with screws and polyurethane caulking.  

February 23

Installed the window glass and winder mechanisms in the rear doors. I had some trouble getting everything to line up but persistence paid off and everything is working smoothly.

 

February 24

I made new wood supports that go under the rear seat pan.  The wood in addition to supporting the outside edges of the seat pan also seals the ends of the pan from water and road grime.  Next up was installing the wood behind the rear doors that the furflex nails to. Installed the seat pan and floor boards to see if everything lined up.  It did !

 

February 26

 

Started up the zinc plating tank and plated lots of bolts and nuts.  I am amazed how many bolts nuts and screws go into the Riley I don't remember removing this many.  The rear view mirror mount was also plated in zinc.  It should be chrome but it looks fine in zinc.  At the rear of the car I installed the jacking point brackets.  One is a lot closer to the body than the other.  Crash damage?  Bad body alignment?  I will have to look into it.

 

February 27

Finished the seat pan install with wood and metal supports covered with felt weather striping.  Before bolting the pan down I filled the rear axle with oil and greased the rear U joint.  

 

March 4

It was a nice day so I wet sanded and polished the rear fenders.  They look good but I was worried I would sand or buff through the paint so it was kind of stressful.  I bolted the polished rear fenders to the car with 1/4 vinyl piping.  Following the advice on the Riley RM forum I left the piping slightly long then cut out some of the piping cord and folded the vinyl back on itself.  This leaves a nice looking finished edge.  Next up were the mud flaps.  They bolt in place with 2 BA machine screws. I had to drill 2 holes per side in a body flange for the screws.  Problem, with the fender mounted there is no room to fit a drill.   I used my small right angle air grinder and a short drill bit to make the holes.  On a roll now so I  cleaned and powder coated the filler pipes.  I installed them with a new fender grommet and hose.  Ok so I had to cut about 1/4 inch from the right filler pipe so it wouldn't stick up too much.  Things are pointing to the right rear of the body sitting just a little to low.  How to fix?  Should I bother?

 

March 5

Fabricated and installed the metal strips that hold the door bottom edge weather stripping at the correct angle.  I made them from aluminum to avoid the rust that plagued the old ones.  I nailed on the club rubber strip but I am not happy with the result.  The old rubber was 1/8 x 2 inches the new foam rubber is smaller so I am going to get the correct size.

 

March 7

I spent a lot of time researching upholstery, headlining and trim to get a better idea of how to proceeded. I realized that the front doors were not closing enough to allow the furflex to make a seal.  Readjusted the door striker plates and was able to move the doors in about 1/8 inch, helped but they sill might have to move in more.

 

March 8

Ordered red vinyl, hidem and furflex from Woolies and a new boot handle and escutcheon from the club.

 

March 9

I need the laminated wooden ring that holds the rear window in place.  Rather than risk one being broken in shipping I decided to make my own.  The first step was to make a plywood form slightly smaller than the rear window glass.  Next I cut thin strips of wood veneer and wrapped them around the form gluing them as I went. The veneer proved to be too thin and was hard to clamp in place.  I used 12 layers and was still not thick enough.  After two days of work I ended up with a part I am not going to use. I am going to start again with thicker wood.

 

March 11

Ripped an ash plank into thin strips on the table saw.  The strips are about 3/4 inch tall by 3/32 thick.  I submerged them in a bathtub of hot water to make them more flexible.  After soaking for about an hour I bent them around the plywood form and glued them together.  Much better looking.  I am happy.